Day 07:
Today our trip really starts. We use a jeep to travel
the first 79km then bike over the Khamba La Pass, at
4769m. Overnight in tents close to Yamdruk Tso Lake.
Day 08: (73.3km, 751m of height gain
to 4465m, 41/2 hours riding time). Today we bike to
Nagarche (30 km) a small town where we can eat and drink.
The road is at first, but then the dirt road starts.
We cross the Karo La Pass (5100m, after 59km) then descend
steeply for 14km to reach our campsite in a fine road-side
meadow.
Day
09: (60km, 520hm, 3900m). Today starts downhill,
then along a flat section beside a river, passing beautiful
Tibetan villages to reach an artificial lake constructed
to provide hydro-electric power. Now we climb to the
Sim La Pass (at 4330m, 27.7 km). We descend from the
pass with care as a fall here would be into very sharp
rocks. After a short climb to another pass we descend
around hairpin bends to a small village and a lunch
stop at 43 km. From there it is a mainly flat road to
Gyantse.
Day 10: (93km, 104hm, 3970m, 4 hours).
The road from Gyantse to Shigatse, Tibet’s second
city, is paved and flat, so this is an easy day. We
ride through agricultural scenery, with many Tibetans
working the fields at the roadside. We stop for lunch
just beyond a small town, at 48km, where there is pleasant
meadow besides the road, a fine place for relaxing after
the morning ride. In the afternoon we continue to Shigatse
where we overnight in a hotel.
Day 11: Sightseeing visit to the Tashilagpo
Monastery in the morning, then the afternoon free.
Day 12: (103km, 741hm, 4340m). We follow
the paved road slightly uphill out of the city, but
then across mostly flat country until we cross a small
pass (4010m at 31km) from where a new landscape can
be seen: from here the terrain is desert-like rather
than arable. After lunch we continue across more flat
country to reach our camp site at the foot of the Tso-La
pass.
Day 13: (58km, 514hm, 4215 m). The
Tso-La Pass, at 4505m, is reached after a long (10km)
climb. Beyond there is an amazing 8km downhill run before
a flat section reaches Lhazi. We may stop for lunch
before reaching the town or push on to reach it. Lhazi
has shops and excellent places to eat. From the town
it is only a short distance to where we camp at a beautiful
spot beside a river. We can take bath here, though the
water is very cold as the river flows down from the
high peaks.
Day 14: (72km, 1324hm, 4350m, 53/4 hours) It's a
hard day today, with a nasty climb of at least 3 hours,
rising over 1000m to the Gya Tso-La Pass (at 5220m after
22km), one of the highest passes on the route. Because
of the height it is usually very cold at the pass so we
do not linger, going fast downhill to a small tea house
where we have lunch. In the afternoon we follow the road
to Shegar. Often this section of road is very dusty, but
the views are good and there is a good hotel for the
night with hot showers to take away the dust and the
weariness of a long hard day.
Day 15: (74.5km, 1212hm, 4295m, 5 hours). Today
starts with a downhill, then flat ride along a paved
road to a police checkpoint where we need to show all
our documents. Here the main road continues to Tingri
but we turn off for the Everest North Base Camp,
climbing to the Pang La Pass (at 5200m at 34km) from
where, in clear weather, the view of Everest, Makalu and
Cho Oyo is stunning. We can stop for lunch here. Then we
now go downhill to Tasi xo. This downhill ride is long
and has many hairpin bends, but there are teas houses at
the village where we can relax. Our camp site for the
night is about 11km from the village along a flat road.
Day 16: (31.7km, 719hm, 5030 m, 3 hours). We
reach the Rongbuck Base Camp, starting off beside the
Rong chu river with views of Everest ahead. The going is
bumpy and with the altitude can be hard work,
particularly on the last, uphill section, so we take it
very slowly. We take lunch at Rongbuck, then continue to
Everest Base Camp, another 7km. We have to cover those
last kilometers on horseback as the rules changed in
2004 and no vehicles or bikes are allowed to Base Camp.
Day 17: (70.5km, 426hm, 4571m, 5 hours). We ride
towards Tingri, crossing the Lamna La Pass. This is a
delightful ride as the road is not in good enough
condition for motor traffic so bikers have it to
themselves and can enjoy the scenery. There are remote
villages and meadows with yaks and sheep. We stop for
lunch at after about 30km, having climbed 553m to reach
an altitude of 5030m. From the pass we go downhill to
reach a river across which there is no bridge - time to
take off our shoes and wade through the cold, knee-deep
water. We now follow the river gently downhill to Tingri,
a beautiful town with fine views of Everest and Cho Oyo.
We overnight in a guesthouse.
Day 18: (70.5km, 426hm, 4570m, 5 hours). An easy
day on paved, then dirt roads, but with no high passes.
The views along the way, of villages with Tibetans in
typical dress and beautiful landscapes, are excellent.
We stop for lunch stop at 42.5km (185hm, 21/2 hours)
close to a river. Then we descend to our campsite, close
to a river where we can swim.
Day 19: (82km, 1200hm, 3818 m, 61/2 hours). Today
we cross the Lalung La and Yakri Shong La passes. From
our camp we climb straight up to the Lalung La (14.4 km,
447hm, 4910 m, about 11/2 hours), then after a short
descent we climb again to the Yakri Shong La (26.4 km,
705hm, 5050 m 3 hours). To compensate for the climbs
there are tremendous views of Shishapangma (Xixabangma),
to the right, and other great Himalayan peaks. The Yakri
Shong La is the last pass of the route. Beyond it there
is a long descent to Nepal, probably the longest
downhill road in the world. We stop for lunch after
36km, at 4534 m, where there is a tea house at the
bottom of a steep downhill section. This is a good tea
house with a strong mud wall which protects us if there
is a wind blowing, as there often is. After lunch we
continue down (though not now as steeply as before). It
sounds easy, but the wind and dust can make this section
hard work and we will be tired when we reach Nyalam, a
town with opportunities for a drink and a rest. Our camp
will be 3km from the town on a fine meadow site.
Day 20: (55km, 187hm, 1411m, 21/2 hours).
Downhill again, this time concentrating hard as the road
is rocky in places and a fall would be dangerous.
Finally we reach the Chinese customs at Xhangmu (at
31km). The town is the last in China and there are often
a lot of jeeps and trucks which add to the hazard of the
descent. It can take some time to get through customs
and is much easier if we stay together as a single
group. Then it is downhill again for another 9km to
Friendship Bridge and the Nepalese customs at Kadari.
Here we stop for lunch at a restaurant which serves both
Nepalese and western food. After lunch we continue along
the valley of the Bhote Kosi River, crossing a
suspension bridge from where people make the second
longest bungy jump in the world.
Day 21: (67.7km, 1205hm, 1470m 4 hours). You will
probably feel a difference in temperature today - after
the cold of the Tibetan plateau it can be 30°C as we
ride beside the Bhotkosi River, with rice paddies on the
slope either side of the valley. The road is 90% paved
and mostly downhill for 37km, before turning uphill for
4 km. We then descend to Dolal Ghat Bridge where we can
have lunch in the only local restaurant. Across the
bridge the road is flat at first, then rises to
Lamidanda. Beyond we reach a Nepalese Army Control Post
before a final uphill section to Dhulikhel Resort where
we spend the night.
Day 22: (39.5 km, 538hm, 1330m, 21/2 hours) Today
there is a choice - bus transfer to Kathmandu or bike
all the way to Thamel if those who want to make the
whole tour by bike. In Kathmandu we chose a route which
takes us away from most of the city traffic.
Day 23: Free day in Kathmandu, perhaps shopping
for souvenirs for yourself, family and friends.
Day 24: Transfer to the International Airport for
flights home.
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