The
area traversed by the Manali leh road, and containing
the drainage basins of Tso-moriri and other lakes is
known as Rupshu. Here, the Zanskar range is transformed
into bare rolling many-hued hills divided by open high
altitude valley scoured by dust-devils. It is a landscape
unlike any other in Ladakh -or elsewhere in India.
The first circuit follows the Manali road over the Taglang-la
as far as Debring, a Chang-pa camping place. From here
it strikes off east on a rough treks across the basin
of the twin lakes Startsapuk-Tso (Fresh water) and the
Polokangka-la (about 16,500 feet/ 5,030m) to Sumdo in
the Puga valley - near the site of old sulphur mines,
then over a roller-coaster track to the head of the
Tso-moriri, and on to Korzok, a quarter of the way along
the lake's 20 km length.
The alternative route, instead of leaving the Indus
at Upshi, carries on up the river, as it snakes its
way through a gorge between the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges,
to the village of Chumathang, where there is a hot spring.
At Mahe, some 17 km further, the road crosses from the
north to the south bank of the river by bridge; it then
follows the Puga stream up to join the first circuit
at Sumdo.
