Gurla Mandhata (Gurla Mandhata Expedition (7,694 m) (25,243 ft)) is the highest peak of the Nalakankar Himal, a small subrange of the Himalaya. It lies in Burang County of the Ngari Prefecture in the Tibet Autonomous Region of China, near the northwest corner of Nepal. It is the 34th highest peak in the world (using a 500 metre prominence cutoff). It is also notable for being well within the Tibetan Plateau (most peaks of similar height - except notably Shishapangma, the world's 14th highest peak - lie nearer to or outside the edge of the Plateau) and relatively far away from other peaks of height greater than 7500 metres. It sits roughly across Lake Manasarowar from the sacred peak of Mount Kailash.
Gurla Mandata Expedition In 1905 T. G. Longstaff, accompanied by two alpine guides and six porters, made an attempt on Gurla Mandhata summit. They turned back at around 7,000 m (23,000 ft) after being caught in an avalanche and encountering other difficulties. This was a strong achievement for the time, especially for such a small group; at that time no summit of over 7,000 m had yet been climbed and Longstaff's height represented a world altitude record.
Mt. Gurla Mandhata The first ascent of the peak was by a joint Japanese/Chinese team led by Katsutoshi Hirabayashi, via the north side of the peak, in May 1985. Since that time, there have been six additional successful ascents and two failed attempts on the peak.
The standard ascent route climbs the western flanks of the mountain ascending the Chaglung' mlungha Glacier to the summit plateau. Most teams choose to approach the mountain over land by jeep from either Lhasa, Tibet, or Kathmandu, Nepal. However, an alternate approach begins in the mountain hamlet of Simikot, Nepal, in the remote Humla district of west Nepal and follows the Karnali River northward, crossing into Tibet (China) in the village of Sher. Jeeps then take climbers north through Taklakot (Burang) to basecamp on the mountain.
The first official American ascent of the mountain was made on September 28, 2006. Gurla Mandhata Climbing, the best time is September October. Spring is more windy and soft snow.
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel
Day 02: A free day in Kathmandu
Day 03: A free day in Kathmandu / Tibet visa procedure
Day 04: Drive to Zangmu (235cm). Overnight in hotel.
Day 05: Drive to Nyalam. (3750m). Overnight in hotel
Day 06: Nyalam, rest day and acclimatization
Day 07: Trek to Lake Paiko Tso. Overnight in camp
Day 08: Drive to saga. Overnight in camp
Day 09: Drive to Pariyang. Overnight in camp
Day 10: Drive to Darehen. Overnight in camp.
Day 11: Trek to Dhiraphuk Gompa Overnight in camp.
Day 12: Trek over Drolma Pass to Zutulphuk. Overnight in camp
Day 13: Trek to Darche and drive to Mansarovar, Overnight in camp
Day 14: Drive to Gurla Mandara Base Camp
Day 15-32: Climbing Period
Day 33: Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 34: Drive to Pariyang Overnight in camp
Day 35: Drive to Saga. Overnight in camp
Day 36: Drive to Paiko Tso. Overnight in camp
Day 37: Drive to Nyalan Overnight in hotel
Day 38: Drive to Kathmandu Transfer to hotel
Day 39: Kathmandu Rest day.
Day 40: Departure from Kathmandu.
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